Coco Chanel

Fashion thrower. Born on supercilious 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. With her trademark pillowcases and little black dresses, coco palm Chanel created beatless approach patterns that be shut a air touristed today. She herself became a frequently(prenominal) revered behavior envision of speech k promptlyadays for her simple yet sophisticated outfits paired with great accessories, such(prenominal) as several(prenominal) strands of pearls. As Chanel erst era verbalize,luxury moldiness be comfort fit, differently it is non luxury. Her ahead of date geezerhood, however, were anything hardly glamorous. After her mothers death, Chanel was instal in an orphanage by her father who worked as a peddler.She was raised(a) by nuns who taught her how to sewa skill that would lead to her livenesss work. Her nickname came from a nonher occupation entirely. During her brief c beer as a singer, Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was cal conduct cocoanu t. Some say that the name comes from bingle of the outcrys she utilize to sing, and Chanel herself give tongue to that it was a shor 10ed version of cocotte, the french news show for un bustn cleaning lady, according to an article in The Atlantic. Around the age of 20, Chanel became multiform with Etienne Balsan who offered to each(prenominal)eviate her start a mil krisry business in capital of France.She presently left-hand(a) him for matchlessness of his even wealthier heros, Arthur Boy Capel. Both work force were submissive in Chanels starting mould venture. Opening her com custodycement ceremony fail on Pariss Rue Cambon in 1910, Chanel started out exchange hats. She ulterior added stores in Deauville and Biarritz and began making clothes. Her first taste of clothing mastery came from a dress she bearinged out of an mature tee shirt on a chilly day. In response to the many another(prenominal) slew who asked remnantly where she got the dress, she o ffered to sack whiz for them. My fortune is built on that old island of Jersey that Id put on because it was cold in Deauville, she once told origin Paul Morand.In the 1920s, Chanel took her thriving business to new heights. She launched her first perfume, Chanel none 5, which was the first to feature a couturiers name. pith is the unseen, unfor narrowtable, supreme accessory of path. . . . that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure, Chanel once explained. In 1925, she introduced the now fab guide Chanel suit with collarless jacket and well-fitted skirt. Her designs were revolutionary for the metreborrowing elements of mens wear and emphasizing comfort e trulywhere the constraints of then- touristed behaviors.She helped women say adios to the age of corsets and other confining garments. another(prenominal) 1920s revolutionary design was Chanels little black dress. She took a color once associated with grief and showed upright how chic it could be for even ingwear. In addition to modal value, Chanel was a popular figure in the Paris literary and artistic beings. She designed costumes for the Ballets Russes and for jean Cocteaus play Orphee, and counted Cocteau and artist Pablo Picasso among her heros. For a time, Chanel had a relationship with composer Igor Stravinsky. another(prenominal) chief(prenominal) romance for Chanel began in the 1920s.She met the wealthy duke of Westminster aboard his yacht roughly 1923, and the ii started a decades-long relationship. In response to his marriage proposal, she reportedly said there substantiate been several Duchesses of Westminster nevertheless there is only one Chanel The external economic de closetion of the 1930s had a negative fill on her company, that it was the outbreak of existence war II that led Chanel to close her business. She fired her workers and shut d ingest her storehouses. During the German occupation of France, Chanel got multiform with a German military mili tary officer, Hans Gunther von Dincklage.She got special permission to stay in her flat at the Hotel Ritz. After the war ended, Chanel was interrogated by her relationship with von Dincklage, simply she was not charged as a collaborator. Some take a crap wondered whether friend Winston Churchill worked lay round the scenes on Chanels behalf. While not officially charged, Chanel suffered in the speak to of public opinion. Some still viewed her relationship with a national mixerist officer as a betrayal of her artless. Chanel left Paris, spending whatever geezerhood in Switzerland in a sort of exile. She in any case lived at her country house in Roquebrune for a time.At the age of 70, Chanel do a triumphant return to the fashion world. She first accredited critical reviews from critics, that her feminine and balmy-fitting designs concisely won all over shoppers or so the world. In 1969, Chanels fascinating feeling story became the basis for the Broad air musical co coanut star Katharine Hepburn as the legendary spring. Alan Jay Lerner wrote the book and lyrics for the shows numbers while Andre Previn composed the music. Cecil Beaton handled the set and costume design for the production. The show current heptad Tony Award nominations, and Beaton won for outperform Costume Design and Rene Auberjonois for high hat deem Actor.Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at her apart(predicate)ment in the Hotel Ritz. She neer married, having once said I never valued to weigh much heavily on a man than a bird. Hundreds crowded unneurotic at the Church of the Madeleine to bid farewell to the fashion icon. In tribute, many of the mourners wore Chanel suits. A little much than a decade afterwards her death, decorator Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at her company to continue the Chanel legacy. Today her name callingake company continues to thrive and is believed to find atomic number 6s of millions in sales each year.In addition to the long evity of her designs, Chanels behavior story continues to captivate peoples attention. at that place wee been several biographies of the fashion revolutionary, including Chanel and Her World (2005) written by her friend Edmonde Charles-Roux. In the modern television biopic, Coco Chanel (2008), Shirley MacLaine starred as the famous former round the time of her 1954 public lifespan resurrection. The actress told WWD that she had long been interested in acting Chanel. Whats wonderful around her is shes not a straightforward, indulgent adult female to figure. Coco ChanelFashion designer. Born on lordly 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. With her trademark suits and little black dresses, Coco Chanel created timeless designs that are still popular today. She herself became a much revered style icon cheatn for her simple yet sophisticated outfits paired with great accessories, such as several strands of pearls. As Chanel once said,luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not l uxury. Her early years, however, were anything but glamorous. After her mothers death, Chanel was put in an orphanage by her father who worked as a peddler.She was raised by nuns who taught her how to sewa skill that would lead to her lifes work. Her nickname came from another occupation entirely. During her brief career as a singer, Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was called Coco. Some say that the name comes from one of the songs she used to sing, and Chanel herself said that it was a shortened version of cocotte, the french intelligence for kept fair sex, according to an article in The Atlantic. Around the age of 20, Chanel became intricate with Etienne Balsan who offered to help her start a millinery business in Paris.She soon left him for one of his even wealthier friends, Arthur Boy Capel. Both men were instrumental in Chanels first fashion venture. Opening her first shop on Pariss Rue Cambon in 1910, Chanel started out exchange hats. She post erior added stores in Deauville and Biarritz and began making clothes. Her first taste of clothing victor came from a dress she fashioned out of an old jersey on a chilly day. In response to the many people who asked about where she got the dress, she offered to make one for them. My fortune is built on that old jersey that Id put on because it was cold in Deauville, she once told author Paul Morand.In the 1920s, Chanel took her thriving business to new heights. She launched her first perfume, Chanel No. 5, which was the first to feature a designers name. pith is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion. . . . that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure, Chanel once explained. In 1925, she introduced the now legendary Chanel suit with collarless jacket and well-fitted skirt. Her designs were revolutionary for the timeborrowing elements of mens wear and emphasizing comfort over the constraints of then-popular fashions.She helped women say auf wiedersehen to the days of corsets and other confining garments. other 1920s revolutionary design was Chanels little black dress. She took a color once associated with tribulation and showed incisively how chic it could be for eveningwear. In addition to fashion, Chanel was a popular figure in the Paris literary and artistic worlds. She designed costumes for the Ballets Russes and for denim Cocteaus play Orphee, and counted Cocteau and artist Pablo Picasso among her friends. For a time, Chanel had a relationship with composer Igor Stravinsky. Another alpha romance for Chanel began in the 1920s.She met the wealthy duke of Westminster aboard his yacht around 1923, and the two started a decades-long relationship. In response to his marriage proposal, she reportedly said there have been several Duchesses of Westminsterbut there is only one Chanel The international economic depression of the 1930s had a negative blow on her company, but it was the outbreak of World state of war II that led C hanel to close her business. She fired her workers and shut down her shops. During the German occupation of France, Chanel got concern with a German military officer, Hans Gunther von Dincklage.She got special permission to stay in her apartment at the Hotel Ritz. After the war ended, Chanel was interrogated by her relationship with von Dincklage, but she was not charged as a collaborator. Some have wondered whether friend Winston Churchill worked behind the scenes on Chanels behalf. While not officially charged, Chanel suffered in the court of public opinion. Some still viewed her relationship with a national socialist officer as a betrayal of her country. Chanel left Paris, spending somewhat years in Switzerland in a sort of exile. She also lived at her country house in Roquebrune for a time.At the age of 70, Chanel make a triumphant return to the fashion world. She first received vituperative reviews from critics, but her feminine and easy-fitting designs soon won over shopp ers around the world. In 1969, Chanels fascinating life story became the basis for the Broad guidance musical Coco starring Katharine Hepburn as the legendary designer. Alan Jay Lerner wrote the book and lyrics for the shows song while Andre Previn composed the music. Cecil Beaton handled the set and costume design for the production. The show received seven Tony Award nominations, and Beaton won for Best Costume Design and Rene Auberjonois for Best Featured Actor.Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at her apartment in the Hotel Ritz. She never married, having once said I never wanted to weigh more heavily on a man than a bird. Hundreds crowded unneurotic at the Church of the Madeleine to bid farewell to the fashion icon. In tribute, many of the mourners wore Chanel suits. A little more than a decade after her death, designer Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at her company to continue the Chanel legacy. Today her namesake company continues to thrive and is believed to catch hundre ds of millions in sales each year.In addition to the longevity of her designs, Chanels life story continues to captivate peoples attention. There have been several biographies of the fashion revolutionary, including Chanel and Her World (2005) written by her friend Edmonde Charles-Roux. In the recent television biopic, Coco Chanel (2008), Shirley MacLaine starred as the famous designer around the time of her 1954 career resurrection. The actress told WWD that she had long been interested in acting Chanel. Whats wonderful about her is shes not a straightforward, easy woman to understand. Coco ChanelFinal Research Paper May 3, 2012 Fashion Leader, national socialist Informant, Compulsive Liar Coco Chanel (1918-1945) Agent F-7124, code name Westminster. To those of you who were not involved with German Military Intelligence during World state of war II, you may know Agent F-7124 as Coco Chanel. Chanel has been one of the top names in proud end fashion for almost one hundred years b ut the woman behind the brand has a alarming past that would make any customer think twice sooner a purchase. Chanel herself once said during the German Occupation of France, For a woman betrayal has no senseone cannot betray ones passions1. Chanel held this statement true through three purposes with Nazi officers during World War II, an affair with a French textile heir who introduced her to an side aristocrat who conveniently funded her first two boutiques in Paris2. In short, Chanel slept her way to the top of the fashion industry. Nonetheless, in 1926 the October issue of American Vogue magazine publisher credits Chanel with standardizing fashion in a caption under her touch sensation black dress, Here is a Ford signed Chanelthe frock that all the world will wear. 3 And they did by 1935 Chanel was selling 28,000 designs worldwide. Coco Chanel was born(p) Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel in 1883 in Paris, France and was the second child to an unwed mother. Years later her parents would marry and have five more children. When Chanel was 12 years old her mother died and her father took Chanel and her six siblings to a convent for orphans where nuns would raise them until they reached age 18. At the convent Chanel learned to sew and was able to find work as a seamstress when she left. Living on her own, Chanel started to sing in a society where she adopted the stage name Coco.Military officers and upper household members of society frequented the order and Chanel met textile heir Etienne Balsan. Balsan introduced her to Captain Arthur Capel Capel would buy her an apartment in Paris and finance her first two boutiques. Chanel began by designing hats, then womens wear, and eventually perfume. 5 As Chanel make her way into the upper class she frequently fabricated her background to hide that she came from such humble beginnings. Chanel has express in some interviews that she was an only child and has never publically declare that she was raised in an orphanage .Author Louise de Vilmorin once suggested to Chanel that she see a psychiatrist about the constant need for fabrication. Chanel replied, I, who never told the truth to my priest? 6 There is no doubt that Chanel is recognized as an innovator of womens fashion during the 1920s. Women cut their hair and stepped out of their corsets. They wore clothes that gave them a waif-like silhouette shape, which was a stark contrast to the curvy, maternal shape previously connected with femininity. Women also stopped protecting their skin from sunlight and began to tan.The changes in womens fashion were said to make women feel liberated and in charge of their own fate, but whether fashion had the force to actually liberate women is questionable. Historian bloody shame Louise Roberts wrote that fashion was a highly charged issue in the early 1920s. E precise aspect of female dress had not only changed but come mirror opposite of what it had been in 1900. 7 This new style for women was criticized a nd opposed by traditional conservatives, Catholics, journalists, and most men.The critics matte up like gender lines were becoming blurred and women were no longer interested in becoming mothers which they felt was the ultimate goal for a woman. Roberts also wrote that this new fashion was not a marker of social change rather a maker. 8 This interpretation from Roberts is very familiar among historians on fashion in the 1920s. Elsa Herrmann wrote that women were finally finding substance in their life, Women were making goals and this period modify them from their lethargy and laid upon them the responsibility for their own fate. 9 Feminist historians Caroline Evans and Minna Thornton economise that fashion during this time offered women the opportunity to express themselves in a supine manner. The women suggest that it was a way for women to step into the fine arts that have been dominated by men for years. Fashion was also a way for women to use their creativity and become businesswomen. 10 Francois Baudot highlights the success of Chanels fashion career in connection with the feeling of womens liberation Thousands of women now began to realize that piteous chic could be the answer to social snobbery.The Chanel look, with its lines decreased to their simplest expression, shows that how clothes are wasted is much more important than what is worn that a good line is worth more than a picturesque face that well-dressed is not the same as dressy, and that the acme of social seal of approval was to be proletarian. 11 Baudot is suggesting that this fashion movement started by Chanel actually broke down the class barriers that had been in place in France for centuries. Should Coco Chanel be corroboraten sole credit for this powerful new scope of women? 12 We must ask ourselves what other factors influenced a social change this tumescent?It could be said that World War I had an enormous furbish up on this change in womens fashion and their feeling o f liberation. throughout this paper I will discuss how World War I gave Chanel the opportunity to start her conglomerate. I will then focus on how Chanel was able to stay an upper class, successful women despite her treatment of the people she employed, her anti-Semitism, and affairs with Nazi officers. To fully understand Chanels actions one must be briefed on the context of each one. During WWI men left their families and jobs to fight. Women had no choice but to provide for their families.The brutality of World War I made the chances of spouses returning very low. France lost 81,000 military men during WWI. 13 Women in the workplace manufactured war goods and faced extremely poor conditions and were often killed themselves. 14 WWI broke down the gender barrier so that women like Chanel could make a name for themselves and express themselves more freely. Historians roll in the hay the rise in consumer subtlety and credit Chanel as the female liberator and this image was created of Chanel as an icon for women embracing the new look. While Chanel was talented, she was also audacious to use herself to get ahead.Without her two affairs she would not have had the notes to build her brand. For young women yearning to be designers or businesswomen perhaps Chanels way of achieving notoriety is not the most ethical. For some, Chanel could send the message to her peers during this time that sleeping with men for money is how you become successful and internationally known. As an older women describing her beginnings, Coco Chanel said, I was able to start a high end fashion shop because two gentlemen were outbidding each other over my hot little body 15 The Interwar Period created a nicety of consumerism.The economy was prosperous and ready to wear clothing was new and very popular. Chanel would have had a harder time rising to the top of the fashion world without this economic boom from WWI. When Chanels designs were bought by the Parisian elite she was able to make personal connections to keep advancing herself and it benefitted her career. Towards the end of the 1920s her affair with the Duke of Westminster solidified Chanel into the British aristocracy. She became close with Winston Churchill and members of the royal family, which would help her out in the years to come.Together, Chanel and the Duke of Westminster were outspoken with their anti-Semitic views and homophobia. Chanels perfume line had been financed, marketed, and produced by two Jewish brothers. Chanel started a 17-year battle with the Wertheimer brothers to gain monetary direct over the company for the sole reason being they were Jewish. 16 one time more, Chanel used her body to advance and her blatant intolerance of Judaism and homosexuality is examine that Chanel was intolerant and yet was still in business. In 1936 French workers went on strike for higher wages and the French labor unions met with management delegations.Chanel refused to cave in any wage increases and other demands brought forth. She eventually realized her fall line would not be produced unless she gave in. Chanel had no respect for the seamstresses she employed even though Chanel was once in that position herself. She employed roughly 3,000 women where the workings conditions and hours were energetic and took a toll on them. Chanels treatment of the female workers she felt were beneath her is not often written about but it is important to note that once Chanel had become one of the elite she wanted null to do with the lower class.Chanel offered no extra benefits or help to the women working for her after agreements were met. 17 Three years later World War II began and Chanel closed her shops because she felt that war was not a time for fashion. Some see this as retaliation for the labor strike years before. 18 Regardless, Chanels actions against the women she employed go against the idea of the liberated woman she is credited with originating. Now in the fashion industr y for twenty years, Chanel had an empire and was an internationally known name.However, the general public at this time had almost no knowledge of where Chanel had come from and how she rose to success. This helped increase the idolatry and taste women held for her. Chanel created a public persona that was idyllic. Majority of what Chanel told reporters was fabricated because Chanel was so repentant of her background. 19 It is hard to say whether Chanels fans during this time would have remained as loyal if her full background was known. Looking back at the social classes in France during the 1920s and 1930s there was a strong center(a) class.The middle class appeared in the early 20th century and its members wanted a clear distinction between themselves and members of the lower working classes. 20 Chanels designs that every woman copied in the 20s had evolved into an exclusively high-end collection much like Chanel herself. Chanel resided in the Hotel Ritz in Paris during World War II after the closing of her shops. France was now under German Occupation and German military officers also resided at the Hotel Ritz. While the rest of France was strengthening their Resistance, Chanel was much living with Nazi officers.The French Resistance amongst its citizens was huge and women were central in it. This could potentially have been Chanels moment to earn her status as an icon for women. Female resisters could get away with almost anything because the Nazis were so uninterested of females having power. These women were excellent at falsifying documents and identities, decoding, and transporting paperwork and they risked everything to be apart of it. 21 Chanel took absolutely no part in the Resistance but rather had an affair with Officer Hans Gunther von Dincklage who was an operative in military intelligence. 2 There are several allegations that Chanel was a Nazi sight. Chanel had become very connected in the past twenty-five years and saw herself as an asse t to the Germans. There are travel records in French and British intelligence of Chanel with Nazi officers and their train schedules and dates. There is no actual proof of what Chanel did when she was a spy so she could not be convicted after her arrest in 1944. 23 Chanel handwrote a note to Churchill in 1944 explaining why it looked suspicious for Chanel and her friend Vera Lombardi to have such close connections with the Germans My Dear Winston,Excuse me to come & ask you in such moments like theseI had heard from some time that Vera Lombardi was not very happily treated in Italy on account of her being incline and married with an Italian officerYou know me well enough to understand that I did everything in my power to pull her out of that situation which had thence become tragic as the Fascists had simply locked her up in prisonI was obliged to address myself to someone rather important to get her freed and to be allowed to bring her down here with ethat I succeeded fixed me in a very difficult situation as her offer which is Italian has been stamped with a German visa and I understand kinda well that it looks a bit suspectyou can well theorize my dear after years of occupation in France it has been my lot to encounter all kinds of people I would have pleasure to talk over all these things with you I remain always affectionately, Coco Chanel Perhaps Randolph could give me news of you. 24 Many Parisians postwar took Chanels actions as a slap in the face to France and questioned Chanels loyalty to France.Throughout World War II Chanel did not partake in anything to do with fashion and is remembered in France as somewhat of a traitor. Chanel moved to Switzerland following the war and ten years later returned to the fashion scene where she was welcomed by the Americans, whom are now her loyal customers. 25 Chanel was able to stay at the top of the fashion industry for so long because she was solely in Paris until after World War II. The French perspectiv e is key to understanding how a woman like Chanel could maintain success.The French have a harder time accepting outside culture or influence because they want to keep France French. Since the French Revolution in 1789, nationalism has been important to the French people. The national motto of France is liberte, egalite, fraternite (liberty, equality, fraternity/brotherhood). 26 Chanel was born in France and was easy accepted by the French community because in a way she could be seen as adding to the French culture. Her styles were created and manufactured in France by French people and this was most important to them.Her success after World War I boosted the morale of women and increased consumerism throughout France. Eventually, Chanel put herself above France and her enfolding with the enemy in WWII ended her reign of success in the country. Another perspective of Chanels life and career to explore is that of American consumers. Americans during 1914 -1945 were not unaware of t he brand and style of Chanel but it was not as common across the large country like it was in Europe. When the European press slammed Chanel in 1954 after her fashion show, she went to the United States one year later.The buyers in New York were thrilled to have her reappearance be in the States and alerted aliveness Magazine. Life did a four-page spread on the comeback of Chanel. 27 Chanels reputation with the Nazis did not survive the journey across the Atlantic much to her benefit. Since Chanel had always been private and untruthful in the press, the American citizens really did not know much about Chanel as a person and just had the image of her as a foreign high-powered successful designer. At this time Chanel was 71 years old.It is possible that her age was to her benefit concerning American acceptance. Chanels affairs when she was younger were not that important to Americans because they did not know the military officers she was involved with. News of her affairs with Nazi officers going beyond just a relationship broke out to the public in the 21st century long after Chanels death. Therefore, Americans had virtually no reason to not accept Chanel. In conclusion, the wild life that Coco Chanel created was what kept her career alive.The mysterious Frenchwoman caught the eyes of wealthy men who financed her career and gave her the opportunity to become a success. The booming economy and new culture of consumerism from WWI helped Chanel become a household name and powerhouse in France. Chanel had the ability to recreate herself at any opportunity she came across and she did. She could do this because she never told the truth to anyone. No one really knew Chanel until after she died. She told interviewers wrong extradite dates and gave different accounts of how she was raised.She went from being an orphan to a member of the French elite then on to a British aristocrat. Her many affairs ranged from heirs to Dukes to Nazi officers and she was able to fit into each of them. Shockingly enough, all these factors are apart of the reason Chanel had staying power. Her rich clients gave her access to wealthy men and vice versa. The connections Chanel made between 1918 and 1945 were key giving her a place in every part of society in Europe.After her Nazi affairs and losing her place in Paris, Chanel had one resource left to tap and that was the United States fashion scene. passel in the United States were eager to have the designers comeback be on their soil. Once famous stars started wearing Chanel, the clothing was in high demand where it stays today. No other woman but Chanel could live the life she did and get away with being called an icon. I invented my life by taking for granted that everything I did not like,would have an opposite, which I would like, Coco Chanel. 28Coco ChanelFashion designer. Born on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France. With her trademark suits and little black dresses, Coco Chanel created timeless designs that ar e still popular today. She herself became a much revered style icon known for her simple yet sophisticated outfits paired with great accessories, such as several strands of pearls. As Chanel once said,luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury. Her early years, however, were anything but glamorous. After her mothers death, Chanel was put in an orphanage by her father who worked as a peddler.She was raised by nuns who taught her how to sewa skill that would lead to her lifes work. Her nickname came from another occupation entirely. During her brief career as a singer, Chanel performed in clubs in Vichy and Moulins where she was called Coco. Some say that the name comes from one of the songs she used to sing, and Chanel herself said that it was a shortened version of cocotte, the French word for kept woman, according to an article in The Atlantic. Around the age of 20, Chanel became involved with Etienne Balsan who offered to help her start a millinery business in Paris. She soon left him for one of his even wealthier friends, Arthur Boy Capel. Both men were instrumental in Chanels first fashion venture. Opening her first shop on Pariss Rue Cambon in 1910, Chanel started out selling hats. She later added stores in Deauville and Biarritz and began making clothes. Her first taste of clothing success came from a dress she fashioned out of an old jersey on a chilly day. In response to the many people who asked about where she got the dress, she offered to make one for them. My fortune is built on that old jersey that Id put on because it was cold in Deauville, she once told author Paul Morand.In the 1920s, Chanel took her thriving business to new heights. She launched her first perfume, Chanel No. 5, which was the first to feature a designers name. Perfume is the unseen, unforgettable, ultimate accessory of fashion. . . . that heralds your arrival and prolongs your departure, Chanel once explained. In 1925, she introduced the now legendary Chanel suit w ith collarless jacket and well-fitted skirt. Her designs were revolutionary for the timeborrowing elements of mens wear and emphasizing comfort over the constraints of then-popular fashions.She helped women say good-bye to the days of corsets and other confining garments. Another 1920s revolutionary design was Chanels little black dress. She took a color once associated with mourning and showed just how chic it could be for eveningwear. In addition to fashion, Chanel was a popular figure in the Paris literary and artistic worlds. She designed costumes for the Ballets Russes and for Jean Cocteaus play Orphee, and counted Cocteau and artist Pablo Picasso among her friends. For a time, Chanel had a relationship with composer Igor Stravinsky. Another important romance for Chanel began in the 1920s.She met the wealthy duke of Westminster aboard his yacht around 1923, and the two started a decades-long relationship. In response to his marriage proposal, she reportedly said There have been several Duchesses of Westminsterbut there is only one Chanel The international economic depression of the 1930s had a negative impact on her company, but it was the outbreak of World War II that led Chanel to close her business. She fired her workers and shut down her shops. During the German occupation of France, Chanel got involved with a German military officer, Hans Gunther von Dincklage.She got special permission to stay in her apartment at the Hotel Ritz. After the war ended, Chanel was interrogated by her relationship with von Dincklage, but she was not charged as a collaborator. Some have wondered whether friend Winston Churchill worked behind the scenes on Chanels behalf. While not officially charged, Chanel suffered in the court of public opinion. Some still viewed her relationship with a Nazi officer as a betrayal of her country. Chanel left Paris, spending some years in Switzerland in a sort of exile. She also lived at her country house in Roquebrune for a time.At the age of 70, Chanel made a triumphant return to the fashion world. She first received scathing reviews from critics, but her feminine and easy-fitting designs soon won over shoppers around the world. In 1969, Chanels fascinating life story became the basis for the Broadway musical Coco starring Katharine Hepburn as the legendary designer. Alan Jay Lerner wrote the book and lyrics for the shows song while Andre Previn composed the music. Cecil Beaton handled the set and costume design for the production. The show received seven Tony Award nominations, and Beaton won for Best Costume Design and Rene Auberjonois for Best Featured Actor.Coco Chanel died on January 10, 1971, at her apartment in the Hotel Ritz. She never married, having once said I never wanted to weigh more heavily on a man than a bird. Hundreds crowded together at the Church of the Madeleine to bid farewell to the fashion icon. In tribute, many of the mourners wore Chanel suits. A little more than a decade after her deat h, designer Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at her company to continue the Chanel legacy. Today her namesake company continues to thrive and is believed to generate hundreds of millions in sales each year.In addition to the longevity of her designs, Chanels life story continues to captivate peoples attention. There have been several biographies of the fashion revolutionary, including Chanel and Her World (2005) written by her friend Edmonde Charles-Roux. In the recent television biopic, Coco Chanel (2008), Shirley MacLaine starred as the famous designer around the time of her 1954 career resurrection. The actress told WWD that she had long been interested in playing Chanel. Whats wonderful about her is shes not a straightforward, easy woman to understand.